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Sea
Kayaking off the San Juan Islands |
A haven for artists and
nature lovers, the San
Juan Islands are a stunning and unique getaway. The San Juan Islands
are comprised of four islands off the northwestern coast of Washington
state: Lopez Island,
San Juan Island,
Orcas Island,
and the sparsely populated Shaw Island. They are known as one of the most spectacular
places in the world to sea kayak, and are also renowned for whale watching opportunities.
Recreational enthusiasts will find much adventure and enjoyable activities available
to them on the San Juan Islands.
HISTORY
The San Juan Islands were
first used as summer camps by Native American tribes. Here, they would set up
camp and fish for salmon, which was their primary source of food. The first
year-round inhabitants were the Lummi native tribe. Little is known of this
tribe, but it is believed that many died from smallpox and other European imported
diseases for which they had no immunity. Smallpox Bay, in San
Juan County Park, was so named by the Native Americans who dove into
the freezing water to rid themselves of the high fevers associated with smallpox.
Europeans began to actively
inhabit the islands, but the islands themselves were a disputed territory, as
both Canada and the
United States had
settlers residing there. Even after the Canada - US border was established in
1846, this dispute continued. There was also a large British
population, with the majority residing at Bellevue Farm, which was a farm and
supply point for the Hudson's Bay Company.
A British man by the name
of Charles Griffin was appointed Justice of the Peace by Governor Douglas of
Vancouver Island.
Griffin was the owner of a pig with a gargantuan appetite that was notorious
for eating the food of the other settlers. The pig broke onto the farm of American
resident Lyman Cutlar repeatedly, and Cutlar, who was "sick and tired" of the
problem, shot the pig. Cutlar refused to be brought to trial by the British,
and instead sought protection from the United States. The situation escalated,
and army garrisons were assembled on either side of San Juan Island. Finally,
in 1872, a German arbitrator was brought in to resolve the situation. He awarded
the islands to the US, and made Haro Straight the international boundary.
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Fishing
boat off the coast of the San Juan Islands |
The first major settlement
was San Juan Town on Griffin Bay. This town was completely destroyed by fire
in 1890, but it was little more than a ghost town by this point. It would seem
that all the drunkenness and gun toting that occurred here drove it to become
an undesirable place to live. Moving into the 20th century, the major industries
supporting the islands were fishing and agriculture, but a lot of smuggling
activity also occurred. Everything from illegal aliens and wool to alcohol and
narcotics were snuck across the border here from Canada. Because of the labyrinth
that the waterways of the islands form, this was an ideal location for this
type of illegal activities, particularly during times of prohibition.
With all this questionable
activity now history, the islands have blossomed into a desirable getaway locale.
Today, the San Juan Islands are primarily a tourist destination. The residents
here are very appreciative of their environment, as well as their unique quality
of life.
CLIMATE
Washington State is notoriously
rainy, but the San Juan Islands don't generally see this kind of precipitation.
In fact, they boast an average of 247 days of sunshine per year, with only approximately
29 inches of rainfall. It only snows once or twice a year, and rarely more than
an inch or two. The bulk of precipitation, be it rain or snow, tends to fall
in the winter months.
The weather is generally
quite moderate. Average highs in the summer sit around the 80 Degree Fahrenheit
(27 Degrees Celsius) mark, and the winter average lows are about 30 Degrees
Fahrenheit (-1 Degrees Celsius). January tends to be the coldest month, and
July the warmest.
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Ferry
crossing Puget Sound |
TRANSPORTATION
The easiest, and most popular
way to access the islands is via ferry. They are served by the Washington
State Ferries. There is a ferry terminal in Anacortes,
which can be accessed from the inland US via the I-5. Ferry Services are also
available from Seattle
and Sidney,
BC.
The islands can also be
reached by private vessel, and these can be docked at the Port
of Friday Harbor Marina, which has over 500 slips. Other docking locations
include Roche
Harbor Marina on the north end of San Juan Island, and Snug
Harbor in Mitchell Bay on the west side of San Juan Island.
Charter flights can arrive
and depart from the Friday
Harbor Airport, with several small charter airlines flying within the
islands. The closest international airport is the Seattle
- Tacoma International Airport.
Once on the islands, getting
from one to another can be done via ferry or by one of the aforementioned charter
airlines. However, ferry service tends to be the more reliable means of transportation.
For tourists who chose to bring their cars, the islands do have established
roadways.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
ANACORTES
Anacortes is known as the
gateway to the San Juans, being as so many visitors simply drive through it
on their way to the ferry terminals. It is well worth a stop though, as there
is much to see and do.
The Anacortes
History Museum examines the history of the Fidalgo and Guemes Islands
through exhibitions and displays. Several different historic pieces are maintained
by the museum. One such piece is the Sternwheeler
W.T. Preston. Her hull was once used to pull snags, which had the possibility
of becoming dangerous log jams, from Puget Sound. She also performed light dredging.
In 1973, the Sternwheeler was placed on the National Registry of Historic Places
while it was still a working vessel. She was retired in the late 1980s, and
can be visited today. The Carnegie Gallery is where the artifacts and thousands
of photographs are kept. Pieces here display the area's local fishing history
and maritime activities, farming activities, local scenery, and prominent past
area residents. Over 600 maps and charts are also housed here. The Gallery itself
is an historic building, constructed between 1909 and 1911.
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Navigational
Compass |
Anacortes is also home to
Marine
Supply and Hardware - the oldest continually operating marine supply
store on the west coast. They sell anchors, clothing, surplus, tools, and cookware.
Antiques, artwork, and models are also available.
LOPEZ ISLAND
The main settlement on Lopez
Island is Lopez Village. Sometimes called Slopez, it is where most of this island's
amenities, shops, and restaurants are. The Lopez
Island Historical Museum is among the attractions here.
The majority of the exhibits
at the Lopez Island Historical Museum focus on the European settlement of the
island. This is illustrated using genealogy charts, diaries of early settlers,
and photographs. Quilts, pianos, and other household items depicting pioneer
life are also housed in the museum. San Juan County Historical Landmark Tour
brochures are available, and these show locations of all the historical sites
on the island.
There are several vineyards
in the area. This island features Lopez
Island Vineyards and Winery. The wines here are made using organically
grown grapes. Visitors are welcome, and the tasting room is open between May
and September.
SAN JUAN ISLAND
The largest centre in the
San Juan Islands is Friday Harbor. There is a large, well-protected marina,
and it is a popular place to dock boats. Numerous amenities are offered, and
it is an ideal place on the island to grab a bite to eat, do some shopping,
and find a place to stay for the night.
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Whale
diving off coast of San Juan Islands |
One of Friday Harbor's more
interesting attractions is the Whale
Museum. The focus here is to showcase the natural history of these impressive
marine mammals. This is done through the examination of several different specific
pods of whales. Real whale skeletons and other intriguing pieces are displayed.
Audio-visual programs are also used, and one of these features whale songs.
Education and conservation are highlighted.
San
Juan National Historic Park is the site where the 'Pig War' occurred.
The main highlights in the park are the American Camp and the English Camp,
and each of these has been recreated in the manner of which they would have
appeared at the time of the strife. American Camp is located six miles southeast
of Friday Harbor. Two historic buildings remain, as do the remnants of an earthen
gun emplacement. A ranger is on duty to provide information, and numerous self-guided
tours of the camp can be taken. The Visitor's Centre is also located at the
American Camp, and it features exhibits on the archaeology and daily life in
both camps.
The English Camp is nine
miles northwest of Friday Harbor. It is here that Mount
Young, San Juan Island's highest peak, is located. Other features of
English Camp are the four restored historic buildings, with a barracks and a
blockhouse being among them. A small formal garden is also on site, and visitors
can take self-guided history walks. The Park Headquarters are located in Friday
Harbor. They have a variety of exhibits highlighting archaeology, the 'Pig War',
the joint occupation and frontier army life.
ORCAS ISLAND
Orcas Island is known as
the 'Jewel of the San Juans'. It is the largest of the islands, filled with
incredible scenery. Moran
State Park can be found here.
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Trail
in Moran State Park |
At approximately 500 acres,
Moran State Park is the fourth largest park in the state. It is named for Robert
Moran, a shipbuilder and former mayor of Seattle. In 1921, he donated more than
2, 700 acres of land to the state for a park. Throughout the 1930s, the Civilian
Conservation Corps constructed the trails, roads, and buildings using materials
native to the area.
Moran State Park is an excellent
place for outdoor enthusiasts, boasting 30 miles of trails, 5 lakes, and over
150 campsites. Mount
Constitution is located here, and at 2407 feet, it is the highest peak
of all the islands. Several trails will take hikers on the mountain, but the
Cold Springs Trail reaches 2050 feet, almost the summit of the mountain. There
are numerous other trails throughout the park, but it is important to note that
some do close during the winter months. 11 miles of trail stay open year-round.
Swimming and boating are
also offered here, in addition to the abundant wildlife viewing opportunities.
